Finally in Zomba, our Malawian Home!

June 25, 2008:

We woke up early this morning to get ready to leave. Charles and the staff at Korea Garden Lodge packed our little bus full of stuff while we had breakfast, and we headed out. We said bye to Isaac, our incredibly friendly waiter, and took some pictures of the gardens and pool. I wish I could post pictures (the internet is just not fast enough) of the bus packed from floor to ceiling about three rows from the back. It’s funny to see how much luggage we actually have, but considering how many supplies we’ve brought and souvenirs we’ll want to bring home, it makes sense.

We made our way through town, over the river and down the main road towards Zomba. The mountains we saw on the trip were amazing. Who would think that Malawi could have such beautiful mountains? I thought mountains in the Western U.S. were beautiful, but these are the most incredible mountains I’ve ever seen. They’re very different from our mountains. We’ll be driving along the road and not see any for miles, but then suddenly in the distance a few rocky ones shoot up from the ground. They’re all different sizes and shapes, and each one is exciting to see.

It took us about an hour and a half on the bus to get to Dedza. We loved seeing all the beautiful scenery along the way. When we arrived at Dedza Pottery, the flowers and gardens were very inviting. The pottery buildings and café are made of very sturdy brick and secure roofs. We entered the shop and were immediately overwhelmed with the selection! There was too much to choose from, and there was very little organization to it all. I had so much fun looking at everything, but my indecision hindered me from making decisions quickly. I ended up picking out and creating a mini tea set, and I bought a few separate items. A lot of people bought their items and took them with us on the bus, but some of us shipped them. The person that I checked out with gave me a discount, so I definitely decided to ship it home. I asked him why I got a discount, and he responded, “Because you are my customer!” Reason enough for me! Apparently, it may not get there until October, but I took a picture, and it will be well worth the wait. They receive and ship orders from all around the world. I can’t wait for a surprise from Dedza at home!

We all stopped to enjoy lunch right next door at the café. They had excellent food! We sat outside on the patio and had fun discussing our pottery selections and taking pictures of the mountains in the distance. We had to hurry though because we still had to make it to one last stop in Dedza.

Our last stop in Dedza was this man’s recycled paper making place and small shop. We had to rush here, so we could see a demonstration and buy some souvenirs. Dr. Kelly did and overview for us of how he makes his products. Basically, he is able to make a living by collecting trash and used paper products, cutting them up into little pieces, soaking them in water and making a “porridge” of the materials, spreading them out on a flat wired surface and them letting the pieces air dry. He also makes paper out of elephant dung in the same way. What a creative man! He uses what he has and what he can find to make a living. We bought all sorts of gifts created from the paper, and he was even disappointed that we arrived so soon because he didn’t have time to create as much as he wanted! His wife also hand makes dolls. I was able to buy one of them, and I think it’ll make a great souvenir to remember our time there.

As I left the shop, others were still inside and some of us were talking with the children outside. They love to play football (soccer) here, but many children are unable to afford or find real balls. They are creative and make them from tied up plastic bags. I watched one child kick his around for a while. Then I thought, “Wow, I wish I could get to my bag.” I’ve brought about 15 plastic globes to blow up that help teach about the countries of the world and make great balls. I went on the bus to see if I could search through the suitcases to find my bag. Well, I didn’t even have to do that. Mine was the first one I saw. I don’t know if I truly believe in “signs”, but if this weren’t a sign, I’m not sure what is. The globes were right on the top of my opened suitcase. Dr. Jones saw what I was doing and was just as delighted as I was to find one. She commented that many of these children do no attend school and rarely are given anything for pleasure or even survival from outsiders. I took the ball outside and began to blow it up at the excitement of the children that were now surrounding me. To be honest, I could barely breath. My heart was beating so fast, and I was filled with such emotion that it was difficult to blow up the ball. After a few seconds, they began to realize what this flat plastic was becoming- a ball. I then showed them where Malawi is located on the map and how they can play with it just like a football (soccer ball) that they already have. It was definitely one of the best moments of my life. Something that simple meant so much to them, and I hope they’ll remember that day forever because I surely will.

We all loaded back on the bus, and one child asked Heidi for a pen for school. She had one in her pocket and was happy to give it to him. We all waved goodbye and some even wanted to get on the bus. We would have loved to take them with us, but that’s obviously something we couldn’t do. Down the road, Charles pointed out that the road is actually the border between Malawi and Mozambique. Basically, we were in limbo between the two. It was really neat, but then again there’s little security that way. We stopped at this market that is half way on the Malawi side and half way on the Mozambique side. It was overwhelming! There were people and goods coming from all sides, and we didn’t know how to react. The people from Mozambique seemed different from the Malawians, but many of them acted similarly. I videotaped what I saw for a bit, but then a few minutes later, Alicia ran up to us and said to put our cameras away. We were confused. Charles had told them that if you take a picture on the Mozambique side, they’d arrest you and take you to jail. You better believe we put our cameras away! We continued to look around, but just hearing that turned me off. That had all sorts of goods, and medicines packaged in small plastic bags also seemed popular.

We all came back to the bus in about 20 minutes and the women on the Malawi side were crowed near the door trying to teach us some Chichewa words. We responded in English. It’s surprising how much you can learn from someone who speaks nothing of your language.

As we continued on to Zomba from the Market, the mountains continued to glow in the sunlight, and the varying angles made for some incredible pictures. I can’t wait to share later. Along the way, Charles pulled off the road to show us a traditional Malawian village. The children came running up from the village to greet us on a higher level than them on the road. They were excited and some spoke a few Chichewa words with us. As we were stopped on the side of the road, a few cars passed by. Despite the fact that the speed limit is 50 in some areas, cars tend to well exceed this speed. You also have to be careful to look both ways because they don’t stop! Mandy played a game with the children before we had to leave, but their excitement quickly turned to anger when we did not give them any money. It was if the game was them “working” for a “dollar” as they said. But to us, we were trying to be friendly and enjoy a moment with them. They became hostile and we quickly got back on the bus. Even the sweetest girl during the game had the angriest face when we left without giving them money.

Across the road, we were able to take some pictures of the mountains on the Mozambique side. I can’t wait to show Polanah, my African Studies professor, the pictures when we return to school. He’ll probably act disgusted that I’d take pictures of his Mozambique, but I know he’ll be delighted deep down inside. He just will not give me the gratification of knowing so.

Zomba was still about two hours away from this area, so we had to continue on. It was a lot to pack in before dark, but Charles always makes sure we get places when we need to. As we traveled through a busier area along the road, we came across a very sad sight. The car in front of us had hit a dog, but it didn’t die on impact. Its companion dog ran out to see it and they both were yelping in the road. I’m not sure if I became emotional at the sight of the hurt dog or at the sight of not one person going to help this animal. I’ve come to realize it’s not the culture. Animals are food, and there is little that anyone could really do for it. We drove on, but I wonder what happened to him.

About an hour down the road, we drove past the end of the Mozambique line. There was very little “border control” but we did have to stop. We saw similar small towns and villages. There were even a few markets off the side of the road.

We made it to Liwonde where a Malawian National Park is located. We didn’t stop, but this is where our safari night will be. It sits right on the edge of the Shire River (which we passed) that feeds into Lake Malawi. Many people were on the banks of this beautiful sight fishing, washing, and visiting. Within Liwonde National Park is Mvuu Camp where our safari will be. “Mvuu” is Chichewa for hippo.

It was almost dark, and we finally arrived at Annie’s Lodge. We cut it very close, and it gets dark around here with little warning. Apparently, the unspoken word is to be in no later than 6 EVER. It’s just not safe.

Annie’s Lodge is the idyllic place to stay in Zomba. The pictures online do not do this place justice. Basically, Zomba sits at the foot of the Zomba plateau and Annie’s Lodge is a little ways up the hill of the plateau. The grounds are on different levels with beautiful foliage, trees, colonial-style buildings, and excellent accommodations. I feel like I need to re-write the content on their website. I honestly feel like there is no way I’m in Africa. I feel as though I’m in the mountains of a European country. It also gets chilly very early, so we’re wearing sweatshirts by dark. It’s the perfect temperature after a warmer day.

So, we’re supposed to be in Africa right? Well, we all thought we’d died and gone to British heaven when we got off the bus. One word: Peter, a name that I predict will continue to come up in conversations for weeks to come. This man is beautiful. Brian told us later that night that he was the last one of the bus and he and Peter had a “moment” where they realized without speaking that all of us were schoolgirl giggling at Peter, and he just knew it. Peter knew we were smitten with him, but he continued to beam and welcome us to our home away from home. The funniest part was seeing Dr. Jones (the youngest and probably most precious professor from Radford here with us) falling all over herself with excitement to see him. Dr. Kelly, more than a few years her senior, was right there with her. They love Peter and even admitting to taking pictures of “scenery” on grounds last year that just “happen” to have him in it as well.

We walked down to our room which is a somewhat separated from many of the other students, but Peter assured us we could move this weekend once this government conference leaves. “Brilliant”: my new favorite word.

Amber and Heidi do not have a room until Saturday, so Amber is staying with us. We haven’t been able to unpack anything, but it won’t be much longer until we move and really get settled. As Amber, Lexi and I started to relax on the beds in our room, the power went out. If you think it’s scary when the power goes out a home, try being in an area that has NO outside light at all. Because we just got there, we had no idea where our flashlights were, and it took a lot of commotion and scared shrieks before we found one. All was well after this. It didn’t come back on right away, so we decided to head out. We headed towards the dining room, but we didn’t see anyone there, so we started to walk around in the dark and saw some of the light from the backup generator.

We walked toward the bar and found Dr. Kelly, so we decided to chat with her while we waited for others. She said that Peter had looked for her to get her first drink at Annie’s this year, but she beat him to it. Before we could order, Peter came up and said everyone’s first drinks were on him. “Cheers”. It was the perfect time to try the Kuche Kuche, Malawian beer found only in Malawi and our new favorite catchphrase. Don’t worry, we got a picture. The three of us sat with Dr. Kelly for a while and just reflected on the day and how unexpectedly beautiful Annie’s Lodge and Zomba really are. She told us about some of her past experiences, a grant she’s working on for work in Ethiopia on a new five-year teacher education program and the history of Annie’s lodge. She said how hospitable Annie and Peter have been over the years and why she keeps coming back. She went into some detail of Annie’s political background as a former member of parliament and how she planned to run again this past year. Apparently, Annie’s church members advised her not run because they were afraid that she’d be killed. Despite the fact that she is a former member of parliament, it’s still a huge risk for a woman to run for such a position. Dr. K also went into detail about how Annie runs and owns an orphanage and how she wants to have a whole day with us to let us visit. Peter also wants to plan a Jazz night. We have so many activities planned, it’s almost overwhelming!

Liz (Dr. Barber from NC A&T) then showed up at the bar, as others approached and said, “Now this is graduate school: learning at the bar.” We all laughed. Most of her comments and insights are meaningful but always with a bit of humor or pizzazz- just like Liz. She’s wonderful. The five of us continued to talk, especially about Dr. Kelly’s background and how she has really inspired the following of herself and Dr. Jones. They talked about their other trips and we said how cool and exciting this one has been in just a few short days. Dr. Liz replied, “Pat Kelly wrote the book of cool.” We have so much to learn from her.

Eventually everyone showed up and enjoyed a Kuche Kuche on Peter. It was really great despite the fact we didn’t have electricity. We headed down to the dining room really enjoying each other’s company and proceeded to order dinner by candlelight. They will cook food with the generator or over hot coals when the power goes out. It takes a while, but it’s all about the experience. We continued to chat already reminiscing about the first few days (especially Ethiopia), and she filled us in a little more about the schools and the safari. I really want to see a Black Mambo. Apparently, they’re the most dangerous snakes in the world, but I’m dying to see one. Everyone thinks I’m crazy, but if I were at a safe distance, I’d totally be worth it. She said we could even hear hippos outside our tents munching all night and get fairly close to elephants. I’m so excited!!!

So far Zomba is greater than we ever expected it to be, and I can’t wait to see what else is in store!